light - violently sending back to reality
base - reality
first stage - afraid seeing what lies behind the borders of reality
I was absent for 2/3 of the project because I was ill so my final design missed all the draping and research process; after seeing everybody else's work I wanted to continue working on it, develop my idea further by using these techniques and finally add these elements to my finished garment.
For the theme of research, I chose "distortion" inspired by the picture above, where Im trying on an idea of placing a lining that is longer than the actual jacket; the crack in the mirror makes the "lining" look like as it's just keeping on going forever, like a waterfall.
A mirror fitted my design very well, as the left bottom half of the jacket is cut off and attached to the right side, so the pockets are "mirrored" . To develop this idea of distortion, I started searching for inspirational images.
Dali - Metamorphosis of Narcissus
David Lynch - Twin Peaks Fire Walk With Me (1999)
The theme for the research was distorted mirrors and other reflective surfaces; I quickly got really into Twin Peaks: Fire Walk With Me (a theme that never stops inspiring me). It's a twisted, surrealistic universe, that feels so real to me. Elegant materials such as lace, silk and velvet are from this world; in all David Lynch films, nothing is as picture perfect as it seems. These materials always remind me of Laura Palmer, Josie Packard, Dorothy Vallens and Rita Hayworth, beautful but vulnerable, mysterious characters.
The surrealistic works of Dali and Cassandre inspired me in sense of shape; I wanted the "melting" effect on my jacket. I used an old blanket to create a new outline. The way I had cut the jacket was really simple, and I wanted to keep it like that: by only removing the bottom part, the jacket still kept it's shape and posture. The blanket had some fillings but I removed all of it, so it would be as baggy and shapeless as possible.
The melting represents slow, soft awakening, recovering full conscience after a strange dream, hallucination or vision.
This process can be either sad or relieving - it's never easy, it leaves you drained and confused in the cold light of morning, with the shreds that can never be put back together scattered everywhere.
What was real and what was not? - the tailored jacket is a broken frame that holds everything together. When something so classical is altered - the simple silhouette stays almost exactly the same, but when you come to realise there's something very wrong about it. Its like these dreams of very everyday things, things such as getting up in the morning, brushing your teeth and making your bed. Familiar things that make you feel safe and unalarmed - and so vulnerable.
The other half of the jacket has been cut out and mirrored on the other side - it's still a clean, structured jacket, but the cutting line is left unfinished, with threads of the lining hanging, revealing the hard work and precision now destroyed. Its still wearable, but not the same anymore. Its the crack in the mirror - fracture that changes the object into something unwanted, warning sign that the image shown is not real - but it can reveal us something new, if we accept what is in the reflection.
Where the jacket is very constant, heavy and structured - just like reality - the other two materials are the complete opposite; fluid, slippery, translucent - just like a dream. They are more beautiful - not part of our every day life, but in dreams all kinds of images can exist. The way the fabrics are wrapped around the body - the lace needs something to actually hold its shape (i used kitchen foil to create a tube that would match the waist).
I let the satin fall quite freely; this colour is like a symbol to surrealistic art to me because it keeps recurring in the most influental artists' work. It represents the perfect blue sky, an utopia..
The dream always mix with reality, become a part of it - it's still inside the frame, just filling the whole picture.
The worst nightmares are always about things that are most real to us in reality.
Hallucinations are not completely made up - theyre reflections of what has been going on in the mind, things that you are only a little bit aware of, for example, people who you secretly miss.
--> The answers - desire, fears - are in the unconscious mind that cannot be fully reached when awake
the new outlines tell us about a need to fill in the gap - they cling to the body desperately, trying to fit in - but there's always a final piece missing.
The piece of satin tucked in the chest pocket is a reference to a character in Twin Peaks: Fire Walk With Me; who never says a word, but gives the special agent clues about the investigation, by bizarre gestures, that have nothing to do with the actual meaning of the code - you just have to know it to understand. But the meaning of the blue rose pinned to the chest is never revealed - and I think it's a sign of something so bad it should never be allowed into the conscious mind.
--> The final outcome shows the moment when the dream starts to fall apart, when instead of letting it slip away, you try to stick with whatever you have left, even if it's obviously damaged - you get addicted to it's fake beauty, a quick fix - but it's completely invisible and meaningless to other people that don't understand the code.
--> The first outcome represents real life - the limits of it (the "boring" and uninteresting choice of colours, the dull silhouette that is totally wearable, sewn together, but not very interesting) - whereas the final outcome doesn't follow any rules, it has no shame.
trying to pull together shreds of a dream
before it slips away from your consciousness
added colour and new outline
Image credits unless other mentioned: me
Cassandre (Adolphe Mouron)
Kenzo AW14 (Carol Lim & Humberto Leon)
OVERLAPPING ON THE OTHER SIDE
POSTURE - FRACTURE
David Fincher - Inception
FALLS DOWN IN REAL LIFE
WARNING SIGN - ALARM